The Petzl Attache is a great HMS screwgate that is ideal for belaying and rigging belay stations. The Attache has a wide gate opening making it easier to load it with a clove or Italian hitch. When the gate is not locked there is a very visible red section exposed by the barrel ensuring your safety.
The H cross section reduces the weight of the Attache and also provides strength. And the gate and nose has a Key lock closure that prevents the Attache from snagging. And at 56g this is the perfect choice for any climbers rack as well as for ski-touring.
Petzl Attache Features
- H-shaped cross section
- Wide contact surfaces for better rope glide
- SCREW-LOCK locking sleeve
- Visual indicator
- Material: aluminum
- Certifications: CE EN 362, CE EN 12275 type H, UIAA 121
Customer Reviews of Petzl Attache
Very good quality and value. This carabiner has a nice compact and solid feel. Used it once for belaying so far and liked it because it allows the rope to glide easily and the screw lock appears very tight.
Super lightweight locking crab with some great features. Wide gate opening and large top curve means I can clove hitch two skinny doubles onto one crab no problem, the red warning light of when crab isn't locked is a nice little feature that although you ll probably always press the gate to check, it doesn't hurt to have.
Probably wouldn't use this as a dedicated belay Krab as ropes tend to run smoother over round bar.
Somewhat expensive for a locker but if you want something brightly coloured (harder to lose in snow) with a wide gate that is nice and light I think this is a good choice.
The old Attache was a beautiful piece of equipment, but Petzl seem to have raised the bar even higher with this 'H-shaped cross section' version.
The red indicator for open is still there - probably not essential, but it does give a reassuring feeling.
I only every owned 1 or 2 of the old Attaches, and the same is true of the new one. This is because the main downside is the price. But, following the initial investment they seem to last really well.
Handling and gate operation is really smooth, and the nose is clean so it avoids snagging.
I like to use one of these on my kit for crevasse rescue - ski touring or summer mountaineering. It sticks out from the rest of the kit, and is great to handle with gloves on.
If you can afford it, then one of the best small screwgates around. So beautifully made that initially, it can seem like a shame to get it scratched up.
Plus points: The Petzl Attache has a red indicator so at a glance you can see if the screwgate is not properly secured - a useful check when you might be tired after a long night on the hill and mistakes can easily occur, on what is a critical piece of safety equipment. The carabiner itself is a bright orange colour making it easy to identify against other people's gear.
Minus points: Not the cheapest option, but you get what you pay for and it should last well.
The Petzl Attache is a great ultra-lightweight HMS karabiner. It weighs a mere 56g, around 27g less than a DMM Boa, and has a 24mm gate opening, just 1mm less than a DMM Boa. The karabiner is great for belaying when weight savings are the priority. There is plenty of room to clove hitch two half ropes on it. The screw mechanism has a colour warning if the gate is not closed. The nose is clean and won't snag.
The downside of these ultra-lightweight designs is that the 'I' cross section provides for less smooth passing of the rope on belays than a round bar stock, though the difference is not significantly noticeable on this particular design. The other downside is that I'd expect it to wear out quicker from heavy use (belaying and abseiling), though I haven't used it long enough yet to tell.
For single pitch rock climbing, sport climbing, belaying at the climbing wall etc. I'd get something heavier with a rounder stock that would also last longer (and would probably be a few quid cheaper too).
The Petzl Attache, however, is a great lightweight option for long routes/alpine climbing/ski mountaineering etc. It's not the cheapest but it's cutting-edge lightweight and excellent Petzl quality.