How to Choose a Waterproof Jacket

Choosing a waterproof comes down to three trade-offs: weight against durability, breathability against 'waterproofness', and features against simplicity. Unlike our insulated jackets, waterproofs don't have a Warmth Rating; instead, decide how hard you'll use the jacket and how often, then pick the fabric and features to match.

Our waterproof range can be filtered by activity (Hike, Mountaineering, Climb, Ski, Run, Everyday). Treat that as a starting point: a good mountain shell works well for hillwalking, and many jackets are tagged for several activities. The fabric and build tell you more about how a jacket will perform.

50% Chance of rain is 100% chance of rain every time.

 

Waterproof fabrics explained

Every jacket in the range is fully waterproof; the differences are how well it breathes, how long it lasts, and how much it weighs.

Construction: 2-layer, 2.5-layer and 3-layer

Construction	How it's made	Best for	Trade-off
2-layer	Membrane bonded to the outer fabric, with a separate hanging liner or insulation	Insulated waterproofs, everyday and ski jackets	Heavier and bulkier; less breathable
2.5-layer	Membrane with a printed protective coating instead of a liner	Running, fastpacking, emergency shells	Lightest and most packable; less durable and breathable
3-layer	Outer fabric, membrane and inner fabric bonded together	Hillwalking, mountaineering, climbing, ski touring	More expensive; the most durable and breathable option

Membranes in the range

• GORE-TEX — The benchmark all-rounder for hillwalking and mountain use. All new jackets use Gore's PFAS-free ePE membrane.
• GORE-TEX Pro — Gore's toughest and most breathable membrane, built for frequent, hard use in mountaineering, climbing and guiding.
• Brand membranes — Rab Pertex and Proflex, Mountain Equipment Drilite, Patagonia H2No and Mammut DRY offer strong performance, often at a lower price than GORE-TEX. Stretch fabrics like Proflex move with you for running and alpine climbing.

Face fabric weight (denier)

The outer fabric's denier (D) is a good guide to durability. Around 20–30D keeps weight down for hiking and fast days; 40–80D or more stands up to rock, rucksack straps, crampons and skis.

Which type of waterproof for what you do

Most UK hillwalkers are best served by a 3-layer hiking shell; climbers and winter mountaineers should step up to a mountain shell, usually GORE-TEX Pro.

Jacket type	Activity filter	What you'll do	Look for
Ultralight / running	Run	Fell and trail running, fastpacking, races with kit lists	2.5-layer or stretch 3-layer, under 300g, packs into a pocket, taped seams for race rules
Hiking shell	Hike	Hillwalking, trekking, travel, 3-season use	3-layer, 300–450g, adjustable hood, hipbelt-friendly pockets, pit zips
Mountain shell	Mountaineering, Climb	Scottish winter, alpine routes, scrambling, climbing	GORE-TEX Pro or tough 3-layer, helmet-compatible hood, harness-friendly pockets, articulated fit
Ski / freeride	Ski	Resort and freeride skiing, ski touring	Roomier fit for layers, powder skirt, wrist gaiters, ski pass pocket, long length
Insulated / everyday	Everyday, Hike	Dog walks, commuting, cold wet days with little exertion	Built-in insulation, 2-layer, longer cut

Using the activity filter

Many jackets are tagged for several activities. That's a good sign of versatility: a mountain shell tagged Mountaineering, Hike and Climb will happily cover everything from a wet day in Snowdonia to a winter route in the Cairngorms. Think about the hardest thing you'll regularly do, and buy for that.

Heads down, hoods up.

 

When to buy more jacket than you need

If you're out every weekend in all weathers, a tougher, more breathable shell lasts longer and stays more comfortable. If it lives in your pack "just in case", a lighter, simpler jacket makes more sense.

Features to weigh up

Once you know the type, these details decide which jacket suits you best.

• Hood. For hiking, look for a hood that adjusts at the back and sides so it turns with your head and has a stiffened peak to keep rain off your face. For climbing, it must fit over a helmet.
• Pockets. Chest or high hand pockets clear a rucksack hipbelt and climbing harness; low hand pockets suit everyday and ski use.
• Ventilation. Pit zips dump heat fast on climbs and in warm rain, and are worth having if you run hot.
• Fit. Hiking and running shells are trimmer; mountain shells give arm lift so the hem stays put when you reach up; ski jackets are roomier and longer to go over layers.
• Stretch. Stretch fabrics (like Rab Proflex) move with you and feel quieter and softer, at a small cost in durability.
• Weight and packability. Under 300g packs to the size of a water bottle; heavier jackets carry tougher fabrics and more features.
• Durability. Heavier face fabrics and GORE-TEX Pro last longest under rucksacks, rock and frequent use.
• Sustainability. Much of the range now uses PFAS-free membranes (like GORE-TEX ePE) and fluorocarbon-free DWR finishes.

Quick checklist

1. Pick the type from the hardest thing you'll regularly do: running, hiking, mountaineering, skiing or everyday.
2. Choose the construction: 2.5-layer for light weight, 3-layer for durability and breathability, 2-layer for insulated or everyday jackets.
3. Choose the membrane: GORE-TEX Pro for frequent hard use; GORE-TEX or a brand membrane for most hillwalking.
4. Check the hood and pockets work with your helmet, harness or rucksack.
5. Get the fit right for the layers you'll wear underneath.

Looking after your waterproof

• Wash it regularly with a technical cleaner; dirt and body oils stop the fabric breathing.
• Avoid standard detergents and fabric softener, which damage water repellency.
• Tumble dry low (if the label allows) to reactivate the DWR finish.
• Reproof with a spray-on or wash-in treatment when water stops beading on the outside. A jacket that "wets out" still keeps rain out, but feels clammy because it can't breathe.