The Black Diamond Chaos is BD's top trad harness for use from your local gritstone edge through to long mountain routes. It features BDs Kinetic Core Construction which ensures that the pressure of the harness is spread evenly and comfortably over a wide area. This prevents pressure points and chaffing but also allows BD to use less padding to achieve the same comfort, reducing weight and increasing freedom of movement.
The outer fabric is a durable abrasion resistant fabric that will withstand the scuffs and scrapes you will encounter. The inside of the Chaos is padded for comfort and has 3D mesh allowing moisture to wick away keeping you comfortable on long summer rock routes. The four pressure moulded gear loops will easily accommodate a rack for multi pitch ascent and to the rear the haul loop is rated to 12kN. A great choice for any trad rock climber.
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A really great harness. I was initially put off by the high price of the harness, as £80 is more than I ever planned to spend on a harness.
However I eventually decided that my old harness was due for retirement, and that this one would replace it. So far I'm not disappointed with the decision I made!
The fit is brilliant, even for a skinny boy like me. The gear loops are way better than on the previous harness I had, as the loops on this harness protrude from the actual harness, making it easier to get your hand underneath the carabiner to take gear off your harness. The haul loop at the back is super useful, even though I have never tested it to its full weight bearing load.
The unadjustable leg loops have been fine for me, as I usually hate faffing around with extra buckles if I dont need to. With this harness the fit around my legs is good so I don't need to worry. I would recommend trying this harness on to see if it will be the same for you!
Ultimately, once you get past the price with this harness, you'll be glad you managed to persuade yourself to buy it!
Good for even smaller sized woman like I. Very comfortable fit, easy to put on and secure, doesn't easily tangle like some other harness styles do. Good gear loops for quickdraws and handy back one for the ever important chalk bag. Good quality, used indoors and out.
This is a good all round harness, nice big gear loops, comfortable fit, pretty good weight, super quick to put on (just one self locking buckle). I use it mainly for sport climbing though it is built as a trad harness, might get a bit crowded with lots of pro.
The one downside I have noticed is the 'hydrophobic' material, great in theory, but actually just soaks any clothing you're wearing. Seems like it would be more important in an alpine setting over a waterproof, not so great when in the sun. Minor niggle though as otherwise its been great.
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