The Black Diamond Xenos Harness is a superb four season climbing harness - light enough for summer rock use but with ice clipper slots and adjustable legs for winter climbing. The Kinetic Core Construction ensures weight is kept to a minimum whilst maintaining comfort and providing greater freedom of movement. This construction is also non-absorbent so it won't become heavy and uncomfortable as the day goes on.
The Xenos features 4 large, stiffened gear loops and 6 ice clipper slots, together with a fifth smaller gear loop at the back for your belay plate etc. These provide great custom racking options dependent on whether you're using the harness for a long Alpine rock route, a mixed lead on the Ben or water ice in the Rockies - the Xenos will handle all with ease. Add in adjustable leg loops, allowing you to tailor the fit to your preferred clothing system, and you have an ideal four season harness.
Please Note: The picture shows an Ice Clipper on the harness, this is not included.
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Great harness. Purchased for all year round climbing/mountaineering. Plenty of gear loops and a very comfortable fit. I would recommend.
I bought this new Black Diamond Xenos harness as my main winter climbing harness. I have just returned from a week of ice climbing in Rjukan, Norway.
The harness has been brilliant.
The four stiff gear loops are moulded so that they hang slightly away from the harness, which makes racking and retrieving gear much easier. The front gear loops fit a Simond Ice Clipper perfectly.
There are three cut outs to fit Black Diamond Ice Clippers on both sides, though I don't like these as they are too flimsy and it is easy to lose ice screws.
The harness is pretty light and follows a simple, uncluttered design - important in winter climbing where everything is a bit of a faff. The leg loops and waist adjust easily and the bands tuck away neatly behind fabric tabs.
The harness stayed extremely dry which surprised me as conditions were quite warm and wet. This is a major plus over other harnesses I have used for winter climbing.
The harness has a thin string rear gear loop which is useless. It catches the noses of the carabiners and makes it nearly impossible to retrieve anything with gloved hands. This is about the only design flaw, I think. I cut the string off and replaced it with some 3mm cord covered with PVC tubing of similar diameter to the gear loops. I suspended this new rear loop from two of the ice clipper attachment points.
With my modification, the best winter harness I have owned.
Highly recommended, though at £100, not cheap !
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